Flyway’s ‘Lucky 44’ German Pilsner brings a personal story to a classic style

Pint of Flyway Brewing Lucky 44
Flyway’s Lucky 44

Two years ago, Kaleb Tanner and his wife, Jena, were given some devastating news.

It was the second trimester of Jena’s pregnancy when they learned their daughter had spina bifida — a birth defect where the spinal cord does not close completely during pregnancy.

“When she was in the womb, one of the last things that happens is your spinal column closes like a Ziplock bag. If you have spina bifida, somewhere in the Ziplock bag didn’t close,” said Tanner, a brewer at Flyway Brewing Co. in Memphis.

“With spina bifida, you never really know what the outcomes are going to be.”

The Tanners were quickly referred to specialists and approved to take part in a fetoscopic surgery research study at Memorial Hermann in Houston.

“We were number 44 of 50,” said Tanner. “Had it been a month earlier or two weeks later, we wouldn’t have gotten to do this. So Lucky 44 became a common phrase in our house.”

After surgery and a 51-day stay at Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital in Memphis, their daughter — now 2 — is thriving.

“You wouldn’t know anything was different,” Tanner said.

Brewing Lucky 44

Tanner knew he wanted to eventually name a beer Lucky 44, but held onto the name until the right project came along.

Then, in a work meeting, Flyway Memphis head brewer Teddy Pepper gave Tanner a friendly nudge.

“Teddy said, ‘This week, we’re going to brew this, and the next week, Kaleb’s got this awesome beer. He’s got a recipe ready to go.’

“I had none of those things ready, so now I’ve got to do it.”

Lucky 44, a 4.7%-ABV German Pilsner, is a beer is built on tradition, using all German grains and hops.

“It’s four hop additions at four different times,” Tanner explained. “Magnum for the bittering, Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Hersbrucker in the middle, and then Saphir as the sexy hop.”

Lucky 44 was lagered for six weeks before Flyway added the beer to the taproom’s new 20-tap tower just last week.

“It’s got those classic German Pilsner cracker notes, as well as the floral aspect from the Saphir,” Pepper said. “It’s bitter, like a classic German Pilsner, more so than a Czech style.”

Pepper described the beer as “all natural,” with no forced carbonation or fining agents used.

“It’s the most pure beer I think I’ve ever been a part of,” he said.

Asked to describe the beer, Tanner was straightforward: “Yummy. Floral. Crisp.”

Flyway Memphis brewer Kaleb Tanner pulls a pint of Lucky 44 from the tank.
Flyway Memphis brewer Kaleb Tanner pulling a pint of Lucky 44 from the tank.

Sharing the Luck

Flyway made a 14-barrel batch of Lucky 44 — double the size of a normal small batch.

So, in addition to having Lucky 44 on draft in the taproom, 598 Monroe Ave., there will be limited distribution to select accounts.

“The idea is to spread it out a little bit,” Pepper said. “I think it’s going to do so well … this will probably be a seasonal beer for us.”

“I’m very pleased with it. I’m very proud of Kaleb.”

Full circle at Flyway

When Tanner joined Flyway a year ago, it almost felt like destiny.

Looking out the brewery’s back door, he can see Le Bonheur, where his family spent so much time.

For Tanner, having Lucky 44 on tap is a way to honor the care his daughter received.

“Any ‘luck’ I got to experience,” Tanner said, “was the result of amazing men and women, dedicating their lives to providing care for others.”

“There was a day where I just hoped she would be able to walk, but thanks to them, now she can dance.”

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